Traditional vs Modern Ryokans: Which to Choose?
Wondering about traditional vs modern ryokans in Japan? This guide explains the main differences so you can choose the best stay for your trip.
Booking a ryokan sounds simple until you realize there are two kinds staring back at you: traditional and modern ryokans.
Do you go for tatami floors, futons, and that hush of history? Or do you lean into a soft Western bed, big windows, and maybe a private onsen bubbling on the balcony?
I’ve tried both, and the truth is, they feel like two different trips. One makes you slow down and notice the details, the other feels like a retreat designed for comfort.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through the differences so you know exactly what you’re signing up for.
Traditional vs modern ryokans: what’s the difference?
Not sure if you’d prefer a traditional or modern ryokan? Here’s a quick side-by-side to give you the gist.
| Feature | Traditional ryokan | Modern ryokan |
|---|---|---|
| Room style | Tatami floors, sliding doors, futons at night | Bigger spaces, Western beds, sometimes a mix |
| Atmosphere | Quiet, old-world, often family-run | Sleek, design-focused, easier for first-timers |
| Meals | Set kaiseki dinner and Japanese breakfast | Kaiseki with modern twists, sometimes wine pairings |
| Baths | Communal onsen, gender-separated | More private options: rental baths or in-room tubs |
| Service | Formal but thoughtful, very traditional omotenashi | Still polite, but lighter and often with English support |
| Location | Onsen towns, countryside, temple areas | Mix of city stays and hot spring resorts |
| Comfort level | Minimal but authentic | Higher comfort, Wi-Fi, accessible layouts |
| Price range | Can be budget to high-end | Usually mid to luxury |
In short: if you want history and ritual, go traditional. If you prefer comfort and style, go modern. And if you can, try both. You’ll see two very different sides of Japanese hospitality.
What is a traditional ryokan?
If you want the classic Japanese inn experience, this is where you’ll find it.
A traditional ryokan feels calm the second you slide open the door. Tatami under your feet, wooden beams above, and a stillness that hotels just don’t have.
Most of these inns are old, usually run by the same family for decades, sometimes centuries. You’ll see them in onsen towns or countryside villages, often close to temples or rivers.
The service is thoughtful but never over the top. Maybe a cup of tea waiting in your room, or an extra blanket if the night is cool. Little touches like that make you feel cared for without being fussed over.
What is a modern ryokan?
A modern ryokan takes the same idea and dresses it up for today. Instead of narrow hallways and creaky floors, you might walk into a bright, airy space with wide windows and Western-style beds.
Some have private terraces with open-air baths, others have stylish lounges where you can sit with a drink after dinner. It feels familiar if you like design hotels, but with a slower pace.
They’re easier too. Wi-Fi is standard, staff often speak English, and the layouts work well whether you’re traveling as a couple, with kids, or just don’t feel ready for the more old-school style.
Rooms and bedding
This is one of the first differences you’ll notice between a traditional ryokan and a modern one.
Walk into a traditional ryokan and the first thing you notice is the tatami floor. At night the futons get rolled out, and yes, you’ll be sleeping close to the ground. Don’t worry, it’s comfier than it looks.
Modern ryokans flip that. Some give you a big Western-style bed, others mix it up with tatami seating and a mattress. If you like the idea of tradition but want a bit of comfort, that’s your sweet spot.
So which is better? If you want the classic experience, go futon. If you’d rather have the comfort of a mattress but still enjoy the ryokan vibe, modern setups are the way to go.
Meals and dining style
Food is a huge part of staying in a ryokan, and honestly, it’s one of the things you’ll remember most.
In a traditional one, dinner is set for you: a full kaiseki meal with seasonal flavors. No menu, no choices. You just sit back and eat what arrives, and honestly, that’s part of the fun.
Modern ryokans keep the Japanese flavors but loosen things up. Maybe the chef adds a twist, maybe you get wine pairings, maybe you eat in a restaurant-style dining hall instead of your room. It feels less formal, more flexible.
If you’re a foodie, you’ll love both. The traditional style feels like stepping into Japanese history, while modern ryokans give you a fresher take without losing the flavor.
Baths and wellness
Here’s the part that can make or break your first ryokan stay: the baths.
Traditional ryokans usually have large, gender-separated communal onsen baths. You shower first, then soak with everyone else.
The idea might make you nervous, and I get it. I felt awkward too the first time. But once you sit in that steaming water, you forget everything except how good it feels.
Modern ryokans still have communal baths, but they give you more options. Some have private onsen baths you can rent by the hour.
Others put an open-air tub right on your balcony so you can step out of bed and straight into hot spring water. If you have tattoos, or if sharing isn’t your thing, these setups make life much easier.
Either way, you’ll end up thinking, “Why don’t I do this every day at home?”
Service and etiquette
Service is where ryokans stand apart from hotels.
In a traditional ryokan, the mood is formal and quiet. Staff might speak softly, bow often, and appear only when needed. It can feel a little ritual-like at first, but that’s part of the experience.
Modern ryokans still offer omotenashi, but the vibe is lighter. Staff often speak English, and they’ll let you figure things out at your own pace. It feels more like staying in a stylish retreat than an old-world inn.
As for etiquette, don’t stress. Take your shoes off at the entrance, wear the yukata provided, and show up on time for dinner.
Before you go
A ryokan stay is special no matter which style you choose, but here are a few tips to make it smoother:
- Book early. Popular ryokans in places like Kyoto, Hakone, or Kinosaki fill up months ahead, especially during cherry blossom and autumn foliage.
- Check the dinner time. Meals are served early, usually around 6 or 7 pm. If you arrive late, you’ll miss it.
- Think about comfort. If you’re not sure about futons or communal baths, start with a modern ryokan. It’s an easier first step, and you’ll still get the atmosphere.
- Mix it up if you can. One night in a traditional inn, another in a modern retreat. You’ll come away with two totally different experiences.
