What Is a Ryokan? Beginner’s Guide
Curious about staying in a ryokan in Japan? What is a ryokan anyway? Learn what to expect, and why this traditional Japanese inn is worth experiencing.
If you’re planning a trip to Japan, you’ve probably come across the word ryokan. At first it sounds a little mysterious, maybe even intimidating. What do you wear? How does it work? Is it worth it?
Here’s the thing: staying in a ryokan in Japan is one of the best travel experiences you can add to your trip. It’s not just a place to sleep. It’s food, baths, and Japanese culture all wrapped together.
In this travel guide, I’ll walk you through the basics so you know what a ryokan is, what makes it special, and what to expect on your first stay.
If you’ve been wondering whether it’s worth trying, the short answer is yes.
What is a ryokan?
A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn. Instead of carpet and big beds, you’ll find tatami mat floors, sliding doors, and a low table where tea might already be waiting. At night, staff roll out futons for you to sleep on.
Ryokans have been around for hundreds of years, originally serving weary travelers on Japan’s old highways.
Today, they’ve spread far beyond the countryside. You’ll find them in mountain villages, hot spring towns, and even big cities.
Not all ryokans are the same. Some are small, family-run places that feel simple and homey. Others are luxury ryokans in Japan with private open-air baths, fine dining, and sleek modern design.
No matter the style, the ryokan experience is about much more than the room.
What makes a ryokan different from a hotel?
If you’ve stayed in hotels before, you might think a ryokan is similar. It’s not.
- The room: Instead of carpet and a tall bed, you’ll have tatami mats, sliding paper doors, and futons laid out each night.
- The food: Dinner and breakfast are usually included, and they’re not buffets. You’ll usually get a multi-course kaiseki dinner and a traditional breakfast.
- The bath: Many ryokans have onsen hot spring baths. Using them comes with its own set of ryokan etiquette, but once you get the hang of it, it’s incredibly relaxing.
- The service: Hospitality, or omotenashi, is at the heart of a ryokan stay. Staff anticipate what you need without hovering, and the details make the experience feel thoughtful and personal.
In short, staying in a ryokan feels less like booking a hotel room and more like stepping into a different way of life.
What to expect at a ryokan: Etiquette tips
So what actually happens when you check in? A ryokan stay has its own rhythm, and once you know the flow, it feels natural. Here’s how it usually goes:
Arrival
At the entrance, you’ll slip off your shoes and swap them for indoor slippers. Staff will guide you to your room and often explain how things work.
It feels a bit formal at first, but you get used to it quickly.
Your room and yukata
Inside, you’ll see tatami mats, a low table, and sliding doors. On the side, a folded cotton robe called a yukata will be waiting.
You’re expected to wear it! Guests walk to dinner and even to the baths in their yukata. Just remember: the left side is always over the right. Here’s my post on what to wear at a ryokan if you’re curious.
Dinner
Dinner is served early, usually around 6 or 7 pm. It’s a multi-course kaiseki meal with small seasonal dishes. Some things you might not recognize, but that’s part of the fun.
Some ryokans serve dinner in your room, but some in the dining hall. The important part is to show up on time since ryokan meals are prepared fresh for you.
Onsen
After dinner comes the bath. Most ryokans have communal baths where guests soak together, though some also offer private onsen options.
If your ryokan has an onsen hot spring, here’s the routine: wash first, then soak.
No swimsuits allowed, and keep your towel out of the water. It’s quiet, relaxing, and a lot easier than most people expect.
Sleeping on futons
While you’re at dinner or in the bath, the staff will set out futons on the tatami.
Sleeping on the floor sounds odd if you haven’t tried it, but the bedding is thick and comfortable. Most people end up sleeping really well.
Breakfast
In the morning, breakfast is another highlight. A Japanese-style meal with rice, miso soup, grilled fish, and small side dishes. It’s filling, healthy, and a nice change from the usual hotel buffet.
Best places in Japan for a ryokan stay
Not sure where to try your first ryokan? Some areas are easier than others, especially if you want a mix of atmosphere, comfort, and convenience. Here are a few beginner-friendly ryokan spots to consider:
Hakone
If you’re near Tokyo and want an onsen ryokan getaway, Hakone is the spot. It’s famous for hot springs, mountain views, and even the chance to see Mt. Fuji on a clear day.
Many ryokans in Hakone have open-air baths, and getting there only takes about 90 minutes from the city.
Kyoto
Want your stay to feel tied to tradition? Kyoto is the place. The city is packed with temples and gardens, and many ryokans in Kyoto sit in quiet backstreets or along rivers.
It’s perfect if you want sightseeing by day and a full ryokan experience at night.
Kinosaki Onsen
Kinosaki is all about the bath experience. The town has seven public bathhouses, and guests stroll the streets in yukata, visiting one after another.
If you want the classic hot spring town vibe, this is where to go.
Yufuin
Down in Kyushu, Yufuin has a slower pace and gorgeous countryside views. Many ryokans in Yufuin have private outdoor baths that look out toward the mountains.
It’s a little out of the way but worth it if you’re exploring southern Japan.
Noboribetsu
Heading north to Hokkaido? Noboribetsu is one of the most famous hot spring towns in Japan. The mineral-rich waters here come from volcanic activity, so every bath feels a bit different.
It’s a dramatic setting and a great excuse to try a ryokan in Japan’s cooler climate.
Travel tip: If you’re planning to visit more than one ryokan town, like Hakone, Kyoto, and Kinosaki, a Japan Rail Pass can save you money on train travel. You can buy it online before your trip.
How much does a ryokan cost?
Prices vary a lot, but the good news is there’s a ryokan for almost every budget.
Budget stays
On the lower end, you can find simple ryokans from about ¥10,000 to ¥20,000 per person.
These usually include dinner and breakfast, though the meals and rooms are more basic. Baths are often shared, but you’ll still get the tatami mats and futon experience.
Mid-range ryokans
Most travelers land in the mid-range, around ¥20,000 to ¥40,000 per person. This price usually means a nicer room, seasonal kaiseki dinners, and access to beautiful onsen facilities.
For many first-time visitors, this balance of comfort and value feels just right.
Luxury ryokans
If you want to splurge, luxury ryokans in Japan often start at ¥50,000 per person and go up from there.
At this level, you can expect private open-air baths, spacious rooms, and dining that feels like fine art. They’re perfect for honeymoons, anniversaries, or just treating yourself.
Why is the price worth it?
At first, the numbers might feel high compared to hotels. But your stay usually includes two meals, access to baths, and a level of hospitality you won’t find anywhere else.
Once you add everything up, staying in a ryokan often feels like a much better value than booking a hotel plus separate dining.
My guide on how to book a ryokan walks you through what to expect before reserving.
FAQs: What is a Ryokan
Do I need to book early?
Yes, especially in busy spots like Hakone or Kyoto. Ryokans are small, often with just a handful of rooms, so they sell out fast. If you know your travel dates, it’s best to book as soon as you can.
Are ryokans okay for kids?
Some are, but not all. A few have family rooms and welcome children, while others prefer a quieter atmosphere and may not allow younger kids. Always check before booking.
What if I have tattoos?
This comes up a lot. Some public baths still don’t allow tattoos, but the rules are slowly changing. Many ryokans now allow them, and some have private baths you can reserve if you’d rather not worry.
Do I need to speak Japanese?
Nope. Larger ryokans often have English-speaking staff. In smaller places, you can usually get by with a mix of simple words, hand gestures, and a smile. Don’t let the language barrier put you off.
Can I stay just one night?
Yes sure! Most people do one night to enjoy dinner, the bath, and breakfast. If you stay two nights, you’ll get to really slow down. It’s a nice break from sightseeing.
Before you go
If you’re wondering whether a ryokan is worth it, my advice is simple: try it at least once. It’s completely different from staying in a hotel, and it might just be the highlight of your trip.
If you’re ready to book, I’d suggest reading my guide on how to choose a ryokan so you know what to look for. And if you’re weighing up your options, I’ve written a full ryokan vs hotel comparison to help you decide which fits best into your trip.
